Surfing was a dream. Every summer at the beach looking at happy surfers. Girls, boys, kids, young surfers, old surfers, men, women… and every single one with a smile on their faces. I thought I couldn’t make it. I thought it was way too far from my possibilities. I was wrong. Surfing has been one the biggest challenges and lessons through life. No matter your body conditions, you can surf the magic ocean effect called waves.
There is often the impression that only fit young bodies can surf and enjoy the ocean’s adrenaline. I tried the first time at age of 31, I was late, I know, but I thought better late than never. I wanted to be part of the ocean and follow the waves flow. The first two days in the water, it wasn’t fun. It was painful, especially in the mornings. My arms were sour until the point I couldn’t hold my coffee during breakfast. But I loved it. The sun, the sea water, the speed of the waves was addictive. 3 more days to complete my first surf course.
I met great people at the beach with similar concerns about their surfing possibilities but with the same passion and motivation to make it happen. We made it, together with our surf teacher and his great advice and coaching skills after years of surfing experience. We spent 5 days surfing full time and with the feeling of freedom, being part of the ocean, of another different environment and with smiles on our faces counting down for next day in the water. We wanted more and we kept on practicing for the rest of the summer.
We bought second-hand soft boards and cheap wetsuits. It was an endless summer full of fun, sport, and happiness. It has been 3 years I started surfing. Unfortunately not so often as I would have wished for, but I surf on every opportunity I can. There is more you have to learn about surfing than standing up on your board. You have to read the ocean, listen and read the waves. Catch up them at the right time, paddle waves strong enough to push you and ride them. You will fall many times. You will get hundreds of wash machines and uncomfortable feelings under the water. But it’s all worth when you ride your perfect wave and the sun is shining in front of you. The speed and adrenaline in your body will make your endorphins work and your happiness will never stop.
Surfing can help you to have a fit body, to have fun, to meet new people, to travel hunting waves, but the most rewarding about surfing is that keeps you happy wave after wave. Surfing is a way of living. Even if it makes you fall often, the motivation to ride a perfect wave makes you keep paddling for the next wave coming your way. I wish many others could dare to try this addictive sport and find out how beneficial for your health it is while discovering new destinations around the world.